A Semi-Comprehensive Guide to the Amalfi Coast
So you want go to the Amalfi Coast?
You’ve seen the beautiful pictures of the lemon groves overhanging the cliffs along the coast and the brightly colored pictures of Positano as you scroll through Instagram. Wait, Positano, Salerno, Maiori…? what does that mean, I thought it was Amalfi?
(You’re not wrong for wanting to go, by the way, it’s officially in my top 5 favorite places in the world.)
The Amalfi Coast is actually that – the entire coastline of the Amalfi region of the Italy. It stretches roughly from Naples in the northwest corner down and around to the far west point of Salerno. There are actually 24 different cities dotted along this coastline, one of which is actually named the town of Amalfi. Cities with ports and are the most popular for
These are considered the most popular cities on the Amalfi Coast to stay in beginning with Naples, moving down/around the coast to the most Eastern point of Salerno:
Naples (A, T, P) – although not apart of the Amalfi Coast, this is the nearest major city. This has the nearest major airport, largest train station and also a port, often used for cruise ships for access to the Amalfi Coast.
Sorrento (P) – closest point of the Amalfi coast to Naples, it is probably considered “the suburbs” of Naples.
Positano (P) – probably the town you’ve seen on Instagram. One of the most popular, but also most expensive, towns within the Amalfi Coast.
Praiano (P) – a town situated between Positano and Amalfi
Amalfi (P) – I don’t know if the coast was named after the town, or the town after the coast, but it’s a pretty popular town to stay in and has a port.
Atrani – the smallest town in Italy (by square footage, not population) and only about a 10 minute walk from Amalfi town square via walking tunnels but only has about half the residents and tourists (and also a LOT of stairs)
Ravello – the town of Ravello has beach access, but be prepared for A LOT of stairs!
Minori (P) – Minoria and Maiori are only a few kilometers apart, but each has beach access and a port
Maiori (P) – Minoria and Maiori are only a few kilometers apart, but each has beach access and a port
Cetara (P) – A major fishing village along the Amalfi Coast
Salerno (T, P) – has one of the most accessible trains stations to the ports and high speed ferries. Many cruise ships dock here.
Key: A = Airport, T = Train Station, P = Ferry Port
Recommended Trip Length:
I could spend a month, a year, a lifetime on the Amalfi Coast, however, I understand there are other places you probably want to see in Italy. Because of the complexity of getting to the Amalfi Coast, likely at least a half a day of travel from Rome or Naples, I would recommend spending 3 nights at minimum in the Amalfi Coast. We arrived in the Amalfi Coast in the afternoon on a Thursday and stayed through Sunday midday, and I was honestly a little bummed we didn’t stay longer. For the optimum exploration, relaxation and enjoyment of the Amalfi Coast and all it has to offer, 4 days and 3 to 4 nights would be perfect!
Getting There:
Plane or Train First: It is easiest to get to any port town on the Amalfi coast from either Naples or Salerno. Naples has a major airport you can fly into as well as a major train station. Salerno has a train station as well, and basically all trains that go to Salerno make a stop at the Naples train station.
High Speed Ferry: From either Naples or Salerno, but much more frequently from Salerno, you will be able to catch a high speed ferry to the various towns noted above with ports. The ferry costs 8 euros a person per one-way trip and typically run every 30 minutes to 1 hour apart. Some ferries offer direct routes, while others can stop at every town along the way. Travelmar (https://www.travelmar.it/en/) is the high speed ferry company we used, and most of their routes are noted online.*
*We did learn while we were in town that earlier ferries are available at certain months of the year that are not noted online (6AM – 9AM).
Car or Bus: I would honestly say there’s no way you could possibly drive in the Amalfi, nor do you want to, however I’m sure anything is possible. There is a bus route that runs along the entire coast, but I have heard it’s often unreliable. And, after watching how traffic on the ONLY ROAD backs up sometimes for a mile or more, I can see why people may think that! You can hire a private driver service, but it costs around $60/hour or more.
How we did it: When Jimmy & I traveled to the Amalfi, we took a train directly from Rome to Salerno (it had a brief stop in Naples as well, we just didn’t have to change trains), which cost about 25 euros per person and took ~1.5 hours in total. We then took the high speed ferry from Salerno to Amalfi, which took about 40 minutes. We stayed in Atrani, which was about a 10 minute walk from Amalfi, but our Air BnB host was kind enough to pick us up at the port!
Staying There:
Whether you choose to stay in a hotel or an Air BnB, be prepared for a lot of stairs getting there, probably with little access to elevators or assistance with your luggage. It may be a coastal town, but a majority of these towns are hanging off the side of a cliff, and they have the stairs to prove it.
We stayed in an Air BnB in Atrani, and I loved it and would highly recommend (photo below / link to the listing). Some of the smaller towns like Ravello, Atrani, Minori and Maiori are less expensive than the well-known Positano and Amalfi. They are also infinitely less crowded while still having some (albeit limited) beach access.
The balcony view of our Air BnB in Atrani – highly recommend the Jade House! There is also beach access in the nearby town of Ravello, a short 5 minute walk (and a million stairs) away from this listing.
Tips for Activities:
Book. In. Advance. Especially if you’re going to the coast in the high season (May – Sept).
Beach Clubs: While there is public access in a lot of areas to be able to swim, the beaches get crowded quickly and are very rocky. There are a lot of beach clubs along the coast where you can rent a chair and a chair & umbrella for the day and they have “private” beach access (meaning they rope off their section to separate the area from the public beach in the corner). These beach clubs can run from $15 – 50 for the day and come with various levels of service. Book these in advance or go first thing in the morning to reserve your seat as they will sell out by 10AM.
Day Trips to Capri: You can book a private or semi-private boat tours or take a ferry to the island of Capri. On the island of Capri, which is kind of like the Hamptons for Italians, you can take the “funicular” tram to the uppermost cliffs on the island for outstanding views!
Boat Tours: The best way to see the Amalfi Coast is from the water! Private or semi-private boat tours can last for a few hours, half a day, or a full day. They can take you to various grottoes around the peninsula, the isle of Capri, and other destinations. We took a semi-private boat tour that carried about 12 people and cost $100 per person for a full 8-hour tour. They stopped at a restaurant, took us places to swim, various grottoes, and to the island of Capri. We booked on Air BnB, and we consider the tour we took one of the best days of our honeymoon, by far!
Hiking: While I’m sure some people did some fun hikes, I sat on the beach. However, I have heard that hiking the Path of the Gods is a beautiful (and cheap!) way to see the coast. This route is from Bromello (accessible by bus or a very long staircase) to Positano.
Limoncello Tours and Farm Experiences: Lemons left and right, up and down the coast mean limoncello and other lemon dishes! Get a behind-the-scenes tour of how to make this delicious liqueur at various lemon farms and “factories”. Here’s a link to a sample tour I found on Air BnB, but other farm-to-table and “Agriturismo” experiences are available in the Amalfi Coast.
The Local Cuisine:
I’m a foodie at heart, so I couldn’t finish my comprehensive guide to the Amalfi without giving you a little information on the local cuisine! If you hadn’t guessed, seafood and lemons are main staples of the Amalfi Coast, but what you may not have known is that the area is rich in cheeses as well due to the nearby Lattari mountains.
Lemons: Lemons are just as much apart of the view and landscape as they are apart of the cuisine in the Amalfi Coast region. Lemon granita, limoncello, lemon pastries like “delizie al limone” and torta caprese are some of the common sweet delicacies, while ricotta ravioli with grated parmesan and lemon zest, seafood with fresh lemons, and lemon saffron risotto are some of the savory
Seafood: You’re literally sleeping 25 meters away from of the freshest and best seafood in the entire world in the Amalfi, you lucky dog you. Shrimp, anchovies, redfish, uni or sea urchin, octopus, mollusks, bluefish, bream and pezzogne are the main staples of unforgettable dishes such as “scialatielli ai frutti di mare”, oils such as Cetara’s Colatura di Alici (anchovy oil), and street food cones of fresh, flash-fried fish.
Local Cheeses: Ricotta, goat cheese, mozzarella, fiordilatte and Provolone del Monaco cheeses are the primary local cheeses produced in the mountain towns of Agerola and Tramonti, located closer to the Sorrento side of the peninsula in the Lattari Mountains. For breakfast, try a ricotta-filled pastry with an espresso, and, for an interesting take on cheese, try fior di latte gelato, an ice cream (blasphemous, I really do mean gelato) made with semi-soft, fresh cow’s cheese made in the style of Italian mozzarella.
Other Highlights and Worthy Mentions:
Neapolitan Pizza is a must mention and a no-brainer. Naples is supposed to be the origin of pizza, and it is said that each neighborhood in Naples has both its own “Parish and Pizzeria” with its own take on the ancient classic. Opened in 1870, L’antica Pizzeria da Michele Forcella is one of the most famous pizzerias in Naples, only serves margherita or marinara pizza and often boasts a line out the door and around the building.
Ndunderi is a type of gnocchi which UNESCO has declared to be one of the oldest pastas in the world, and it is made with fresh, Amalfi ricotta. Double bonus, have lemon ndunderi!
Spaghetti con alici e finocchietto selvatico is Cetara’s famous dish of spaghetti with anchovies and wild fennel.
Spaghetti alla Nerano is simply spaghetti, zucchini, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, some Provolone, one of the most popular cheeses of the area, but utterly delicious.
Torta Caprese has a story about its birth, involving Al Capone and a goofy pastry chef, who, being quite excited by the presence of the mobster, forgot to add flour to the recipe. Torta Caprese is a flourless cake made up of a mix of lemon, almonds and chocolate.
